The little-known story of the 1919 First World War Battlefield tours organised by a French railway company.
The three souvenir guides produced by the Chemin de Fer du Nord for the first three 1919 rail Pilgrimages to the World War One battlefields (from the author’s collection).
There has been recent good work produced in English on what is variously termed ‘battlefield tourism’, ‘pilgrimages to the Western Front’ and ‘remembrance tourism’. This has focused on both informal small groups and larger, formal tours – the latter arranged by organisations like the British Legion and the St. Barnabas Society. However, while there are several French language journal articles and blog posts on the subject of battlefield tourism by rail – an area in which La Compagnie du chemin de fer du Nord and, later, La Compagnie des chemins de fer de l’Est (also known as La Compagnie de l’Est) realised a potential commercial opportunity, there’s seemingly not much in English.
Right here, I’m going to make clear that the list of links at the end of this article points to more detailed studies in French that are thoroughly recommended. What follows is only an overview of the subject in part motivated by the acquisition of the three souvenir booklets shown in the slide show above (and other ephemera – which we will come to).
The French called these battlefield visits « pèlerinages » or ‘pilgrimages’ – a sympathetic term (despite the hard-nosed commercialism from the rail companies) in a predominantly-Catholic country that had the visit to a religious site in search of an answer, or a miracle, still deeply embedded in its national character at this time. The term « circuit touristique » (which you see in the Guide Michelin) was considered inappropriate.
The first rail excursions to the battlefields from Paris were made by groups of journalists and business people and civic dignitaries. But, starting from 11 May 1919, the first « train de pèlerinage » ran every Sunday and, soon, every Sunday and Thursday to Albert, Arras and Lens via the Ancre valley and Vimy. Aller-retour tickets between Paris and Albert were priced at 42,80 F (Francs) for 1e classe (I’d be really grateful if someone could reply with a reliable calculation of the equivalent amount in Euros, US Dollars or Pounds Sterling today) while 2e and 3e classe were, in turn, about ten francs cheaper than the higher class. Trains left Gare du Nord at 7.20 a.m. and arrived back at 7.45 p.m. Travel beyond Albert was by baladeuses – tram cars transformed specially-equipped open wagons.. Later tours sometimes included travel by buses. Travellers could pick up souvenirs of their trip at any of the stops and postcards and tourist guides like the examples above were available to buy.
From 15 June, a second “Battle of the Somme” pilgrimage ran on Sundays and Tuesdays, then from 9 October just on Sundays. The round trip from Paris went to Montdidier, Chaulnes, Péronne, Cléry and Maurepas in ten hours. In other words, quite clearly, the French Bataille de la Somme. The ticket costs between 18 and 35 F.
On 13 July, a “Chemin des Dames” pilgrimage commenced and ran on Sundays, Thursdays and holidays. This time the round trip from Paris, went via Coucy-le-Château, Anizy, Chailvet, the Chemin des Dames and Crouy to Soissons. This took twelve hours and cost between 35 and 51 F. To see the Chemins des Dames, passengers had to ride in the buses of the Société de construction et d’entretien de équipements industriels et agricoles (SCEMIA), which was contracted for the work.



Items from my collection relating to the 1919 « pèlerinages » : publicity leaflet for the 1st Pèlerinage including information on fast rail services to London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Cologne and « les Pays Rhénans occupés » and this in July 1919 (left and centre) and 2nd class ticket to Péronne dated 28 August 1919 (right) found in a guidebook for the 2nd tour but, presumably, given the date was a Monday, not from the tour itself.
From July 1919, la Compagnie du chemin de fer du Nord took a significant step in introducing a fourth daily tour. Under the name « Une journée aux champs de bataille franco-anglais » (“A day in the Franco-English battlefields”) the tour, which had only two classes (1st and 2nd), took fifteen hours and ran from Paris to Albert or Arras, via Bapaume, Bullecourt, Vimy and Lens. Tickets cost between 85 and 99 F. Road transport from the Société française des auto-mails supplemented the rail element and offered a means for ‘pilgrims’ to join the tour from places outside Paris, or travel solely by road. The poster below from a later road tour of the battlefields of Alsace-Lorraine gives a good illustration of an ‘auto-mail’.

Image courtesy of Imperial War Museums (© IWM Art.IWM PST 12773)
A 5th rail tour beginning on 25 October 1919 entitled « Les Champs de bataille d’Ypres » ran daily from Paris to Lille, Armentières, Locre, Ypres and Gheluvelt and took 14 hours. Tickets were 93 F (2nd class) and 110 F (1st).
The rail tours ran again in 1920 on modified itineraries and to some new locations but at the end of the year, the rail company decided to discontinue them, in part, [perhaps because tours by road transport were offering greater flexibility and were proving more popular.
Finally, a short list of articles and websites in French that cover this subject in more detail. I recommend them all:
Journal article:
Gersende Piernas, « Les pèlerinages dans les régions dévastées du nord de la France organisés par la Compagnie du chemin de fer du Nord au lendemain de la Première Guerre mondiale », In Situ [En ligne], 25 | 2014, mis en ligne le 10 décembre 2014, consulté le 14 février 2023. URL : http://journals.openedition.org/insitu/11420 ; DOI : https://doi.org/10.4000/insitu.11420
Blogs and Websites:
Les pèlerinages dans les régions dévastées de la France organisés par les Compagnies des chemin de fer du Nord et de l’Est – this covers battlefield tours by road and rail.